Piazza Cesare Battisti 11, I-38033 Cavalese (TN), Italy. Phone: 0462-340403 / 341315, Fax: 0462-231312
Email: hotelexcelsior@valdifiemme.it
Opening hours: Pub/Pizzeria: 07.30 - 00.30. Ristorante “El Molin”: 19.30 - 00.30
Day of tasting: December 30, 2000
It is a well-known fact that alpine climes and winter sports induce an above-average thirst for beer, even in traditional wine drinking countries like Italy. Hence it was not too uncommon for northern Italy’s alpine towns to boast a local brewery. None of these, however, seem to have survived the regulations of the fascist period and the emergence of a national market after the Second World War. Since April 2000 the “Val di Fiemme” valley of Italy’s Trentino region again features its own craft brewery. With his new micro, brewer/owner Stefano Gilmozzi is reviving a local tradition which died when the Fontane Fredde (Kaltenbrunn) and Predazzo breweries closed in 1920 and 1954 respectively.
In the true pioneering spirit of learning by doing Stefano Gilmozzi has started brewing on the basis of malt extracts. The result is a thirst-quenching, light bodied pilsner type beer of 4.8% alc. vol., with medium hop bitterness, subdued hop aroma, slightly acidic and fruity notes and a somewhat dry aftertaste. As most Italian craft beers, Gilmozzi’s pils is unpasteurised and unfiltered. The beer can be enjoyed only on the premises. It is not distributed in bottles or kegs, although your waiter will be happy to provide you with a two-liter bottle of fresh beer to take home. Soon an “alt” type ale will be available which tries to recreate the traditional beer of the Predazzo brewery, the recipe of which unfortunately is no longer known. Mid-term plans include the switchover to all-grain brewing, possibly on the basis of locally grown barley. The hops are already grown locally from imported Hallertau strains.
The brewery is located in the monumental former bishop’s residence in downtown Cavalese right in front of the church. The seven Gilmozzi brothers are deploying a host of activities in the building, the common denominator of which seems to be an effort to revive local craft traditions of food and beverage production. Apart from a brewpub/pizzeria the building hosts a hotel, wine cellars, a grappa distillery, and the upscale restaurant “El Molin”. El Molin takes its name from the old watermill in which it is located. Although the beverage of choice in El Molin seems to be wine, the menu at any time will include at least one dish prepared with beer. Presently the chef serves dried cod prepared with pils. Other dishes made with beer have included: goat cheese refined with beer and served with fig marmalade, and a dessert of wild berries with beer ice cream and malt waffles. The bread served in El Molin is made with beer instead of water.
Brewery Excelsior has gotten off to a running start. Production during the first year will probably amount to roughly 320 hectoliters, a number certain to grow further in the future.
Ton Notermans